ZUMAIA – A SMALL TOWN, A BIG IMPRESSION

I first came to Zumaia mainly because of its extraordinary coastline. This small Basque town may not be one of those places you hear about everywhere, but all it takes is seeing a few photos of its distinctive cliffs and Itzurun Beach to want to experience it for yourself. In my case, I did not need much convincing.
And I think these are exactly the kinds of places I like the most. Not huge cities packed with attractions where you have to rush from one point to another, but places with one truly strong, distinctive feature that makes them stay in your memory for a long time. In Zumaia, without a doubt, that feature is the coastline.

It so happens that when I am heading towards Spain or Portugal, I very often travel through the northern part of the country. And whenever the route and time allow, I try to stop here. Zumaia is without a doubt one of my favourite places on the map of Europe. Even though I have already returned here several times, I still feel that there is plenty left for me to discover. That is why, whenever there is a chance to stop again in this part of the Basque Country, I do not need much convincing. I simply always enjoy coming back to Zumaia.

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WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT ZUMAIA

In my opinion, Zumaia is one of those places where nature itself has created the biggest attraction. Of course, you can take a walk around the small town centre, visit the port or stroll along the river, but the true character of this place only begins to reveal itself when you reach the coast. This is where you will find the distinctive cliffs, Itzurun Beach and extraordinary rock formations that make Zumaia difficult to confuse with any other place.

What impresses me the most is the contrast between the green hills, the rugged rocky coastline and the Atlantic Ocean. Depending on the weather and the time of day, the landscape can look completely different. In the sunshine it is almost postcard-perfect, under heavy clouds it takes on a much more dramatic character, and at sunset it is difficult to take your eyes off it. And I think that is exactly why, even after several visits, I still feel like taking out my phone and capturing more photos.

Zumaia will also appeal to people who do not need an entire day filled with one attraction after another. You can simply walk around, stop at viewpoints and enjoy the scenery. This is not a place that requires rushing. Quite the opposite – it is best enjoyed when you have time to slow down a little and simply look at the ocean.

WHAT IS WORTH SEEING IN ZUMAIA?

One of the places you definitely should not miss is ITZURUN BEACH and the distinctive FLYSCH rock formations surrounding it. At low tide, successive layers of rock are revealed, creating an extraordinary landscape that looks almost like a natural sculpture. Just above the beach there is also the small SAN TELMO CHAPEL, located right on the edge of the cliff. The chapel itself may not be one of the most monumental historic buildings, but its location and the views from the surrounding area definitely make the walk up worthwhile.

For those who enjoy longer hikes, another interesting option is the several-kilometre TRAIL running along the coast from Zumaia to Deba. The route passes through the Basque Coast Geopark and offers truly beautiful views of the cliffs, the ocean and the characteristic layers of flysch. I made one attempt to walk this trail myself, but I quickly came to the conclusion that I had chosen the wrong shoes and that my fitness level was probably not quite ready for such a challenge at the time. In the end, I turned back. However, if you enjoy mountain hiking and are in slightly better shape, it is definitely worth considering walking the entire route.

It is also worth not limiting yourself only to the cliffs. The small TOWN CENTRE of Zumaia is pleasant to walk around, as are the areas along the Urola River and around the port. This is not a place where you need to tick off a dozen monuments one after another. A peaceful walk, stepping away from the main route and discovering new views along the way is much more enjoyable.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ZUMAIA

The history of Zumaia is closely connected with the sea. The earliest surviving references to a place called Zumaya date back to the end of the 13th century and are linked to the monastery of Santa María. The town itself was granted municipal rights in 1347, when King Alfonso XI gave it its charter and the name Villa de Villagrana de Zumaya. Interestingly, the development of the settlement was also connected with the need to protect its inhabitants from pirate attacks and raids. Instead of living on scattered farms, people began to gather in a better protected, fortified place located close to the sea.

Zumaia’s location soon began to influence the way its inhabitants lived as well. Ships were already being built here by the end of the 14th century, while fishing, sailing and maritime trade played a very important role over the following centuries. Over time, other branches of the economy also developed, including cement production, which became one of the driving forces behind the town’s development in the 19th century. Later, the shipbuilding industry once again gained major importance.

To this day, Zumaia’s maritime history is still clearly visible – in the port, the architecture and the overall character of the town. And I think that is exactly why modern-day Zumaia, despite being small, does not feel like a place created solely for tourists. It still has its own history, its everyday rhythm and a very strong connection with the ocean.

FROM A TRUCK DRIVER'S PERSPECTIVE

I parked the truck in a small industrial area connected to a camper parking area. There are also several designated spaces for trucks. You have to leave the motorway and drive a few kilometres to get there, but in my opinion it is definitely worth it. The place is quiet and peaceful, located right next to the river, and the centre of Zumaia is only about one kilometre away. The famous cliffs and Itzurun Beach are roughly one and a half kilometres away, so practically everything is within walking distance.
Unfortunately, there is no direct access to a toilet here – the nearest public toilet is located in the town centre, so you need to allow for about a one-kilometre walk. There is, however, a water tap, so you have direct access to running water. For a place where you can safely leave the truck and head out sightseeing on foot, I think the conditions are quite good.

An additional advantage is the train station located about 500 metres away. Thanks to this, you do not have to limit yourself only to Zumaia – you can also easily reach other towns along the Basque coast, on the route between Bilbao and San Sebastián. So if you have a whole weekend available, this parking spot can be a very good base for exploring more of the region.

WAS IT WORTH VISITING ZUMAIA?

Definitely yes. Zumaia is one of those places that I not only enjoy returning to, but where every visit gives me another reason to stop here again. The coastline still makes the biggest impression on me – the rugged cliffs, characteristic flysch and the ocean create a landscape that is truly difficult to find anywhere else.

Another huge advantage for me is that Zumaia does not require much planning. You can leave the truck relatively close to the centre, walk to the cliffs, stroll around the town or, if you have more time, take the train and visit other places along the Basque coast as well. These are exactly the kinds of stops I enjoy the most – when an ordinary break on the road can turn into a small journey.

And even though I have already been here several times, I still do not feel that I have seen everything. I have not yet managed to complete the entire trail to Deba, there are still a few places left for me to discover, and that alone makes me know one thing – if another route takes me back to this part of Spain, there is a very good chance that I will stop here again.

GALLERY

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